Wipe on poly for maple fretboard?

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Stratified	Wipe on poly for maple fretboard?		Lead	[-]
Posts: 350 Wed, May 21, 2008 13:49:43 Bronze Member	Tags : None I can recall many discussions where this came up as a possible alternative, but I can't recall if anyone reported that they chose to do so. I know that Rob Stefano (Frettech.com) recommends against it; first, staining an amber vintage color is difficult because CA is often used in the fret slots preventing even staining via wipe on methods, and second, damming up of finish at the frets. Tru-oil is supposed to work, because you wipe off after wipe on, so I presume that means a thinner application than wipe on poly. Can anyone say that they have tried wipe on poly and how did it work, and hold up? I'm preparing to build a cheap experimental base guitar for testing odd bridge/tailpiece and wiring combinations, so I might take the opportunity to experiment with a wipe on finish on a maple fretboard. Thanks.
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Boris Bubbanov		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 26 Wed, May 21, 2008 16:02:43	Rob DiStefano does some real nice guitars, emphasizing the basics and getting big results out of guitars such as the Squier 51 and certain types of Squier Bullets. The CA glue is a major factor guiding decisions. Whatever substance you apply over the wood needs to go on real super thin, and I think if you want toning that nitro based toners is the way to go. Apply clear gloss nitro in a mist over finely sanded maple until the wood begins accepting the finish. Later, once you've built a base, gently misting Behlens Jet Spray in the "maple" color to taste, then top with more clear gloss nitro. This is the only way I've found to avoid pooling and to get a toned look. Some folks like Tru-Oil or "tung-oil" wipe on finishes, but these don't deal with the CA, IMO. Bubbanov
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lgbclp		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1140 Thu, May 22, 2008 02:44:52 Contributing Silver Member	I used the Minwax wipe on satin poly on two necks and it's great, but mine were both rosewood fretboards. I didn't use any tint and they get a real subtle amber color as the finish matures. The good thing about the wipe on is, if you wear through, you can easily touch it up and be back playing the guitar in a couple days. --Garrett-- G-tars
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Dale W Johnson	Wipe-On Poly	#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 6 Fri, May 30, 2008 01:00:31	I've used wipe-on poly on a pretinted maple board and it worked great. I think the best success is attained by very thin coats applied more than once. If any pooling occurs near the frets, you can blot it off and rewipe or sand it even before a final very thin coat.
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Ayrton.unofficialwarmoth		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 1 Sun, Jun 15, 2008 04:22:28	I have finished a couple of maple boards using Tru Oil without issue. Tru Oil is by far my favorite neck finish.
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Boris Bubbanov	The undoing of things	#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 29 Thu, Jun 26, 2008 02:58:22	What motivates me to use nitro and tinted nitro on fretwork is the huge amount of labor associated with removing catalyzed finishes completely and well from the fret board. By comparison, if I am less than perfectly happy when applying nitro to a fretboard, acetone and cloths or paper towels can remove all my finish in seconds. Resand if you prefer to subdue any grain fibers or fuzz raised by the application of the solvent, then give her another try. You can redo a neck 5 times this way until you are giggling happy with the result. Ron D's results are in large part a result of immense talent and years and years of experience. I know better than to assume my use of his techniques will in any way match his results, where he gets it right the first time. Bubban0v
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Stratified		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 352 Fri, Jun 27, 2008 13:45:47 Bronze Member	We've had some discussions here in the past about the relative merits of a variety of finishes. For this project (body is in the mail) I've been moved to try Waterlox (I think it was Bfurman's recommendation). Looking for a thin semi-gloss, tone friendly finish. There was a link to a wipe-on finish (poly?) shootout write-up on a fine woodworking magazine's website with interesting results (http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/WipeOnFinsih/WipeOnFinishesp.htm). One of the concerns we've discussed before have been hardness of the finish and its impact on durability and tone. Some were concerned that an oil based finish wouldn't harden as much and could muffle tone compared, say, to shellac. I've run into another interesting article http://www.pencilpages.com/articles/simmons.htm that applies "The Pencil Hardness Test." Basically, shellac and aerosol finishes (except for nitro/poly aerosol) were softest. Nitro (aerosol and otherwise) and urethane, water-based wipe on poly were medium. Harder was wipe-on tung-oil poly. Hardest were catalysed finishes. I've always wondered about the oil based finishes (polymerized and polyurethane). They harden, but how much? This test seems to say the tung oil base poly hardens more than shellac, which I was considering as a washcoat to prevent to much penetration by the Waterlox. Maybe not necessary. Of course, experience trumps testing under unnatural conditions, but this is an experiment for me, as I don't have prior experience with wipe-on finishes. Last Edited By: Stratified Fri, Jun 27, 2008 13:50:40. Edited 2 times.
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Wipe on poly for maple fretboard?

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