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bunnyman |
any wolfpack devotees? |
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I am waiting for mine to get back from the luthier. Mine is pink, and I used Krylon paint. It's mahogany, and I grainfilled it like crap. Anywho- I wanna
see yours!!!
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bfurman |
#1 | |||
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I'm a fan. Have a spruce-bodied one from USACG that I am currently refinishing. The varnish didn't work out so well cosmetically, so I have sanded back
to bare wood. Will be using Reranch tinted lacquers this time.
-Ben |
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bunnyman |
Krylon is bad, bad paint | #2 | ||
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I will say this- this is the LIGHTEST mahogany body EVER!!!
USACG makes a high-quality product. I should have had them build my neck, rather than use my old '54 reissue neck (but I LOVE that neck; just the wrong radius for a Floyd). None the less, I will use USACG for every custom application for guitars. |
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Boris Bubbanov |
#3 | |||
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The new Krylon, with the domed shaped cap/cover is no longer a lacquer but is now some type of emulsion.
Check TDPRI and look for finishing posts by JWells393. He'll give you the skinny on which old Krylons were good and which ones (new ones) stink. |
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iamebbsoul |
#4 | |||
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I'd like an mp3 of bfurmans' guyitar.
since we'd been on the subject of spruce... |
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f1badude |
#5 | |||
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I was psyched to find the Wolfpack shape on USACG. I'm consideing it for my next project.
I'm a big eddie fan so I'm thinkin' basswood back with quilted maple top and unfinshed asymetric neck countour. A matched set of SD "78" PUs are my choice to hopefully find a little of the brown sound. BA |
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bfurman |
#6 | |||
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Sounds like the right formula for an EVH model. Question though - if you're going to stick to the formula, then why not go with EBMM? I only ask because
the monetary savings on a custom build is generally negligible.
USACG does offer some comfort cuts and the sculpted neck block as well as a choice of thickness and nut width for the neck. The best headstock option is US-4 since they don't do a 4+2. I hope that by "unfinished" neck you mean a light coat of Tru-oil or something! Maple needs some protection. -Ben |
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RoneB |
Wolfpack build | #7 | ||
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Ive got two wolpacks in process Played one tonight it howled !!! going to strip it down this weekend and start the finishing. One is all Mahogany with Birds
eye maple two piece neck and a Floyd Rose. The other is Mahogany Body with Flame Maple top. Flame maple neck with a rose wood finger board. and Hipshot Baby
grand Bridge. I will post some Pic's once I figure out how it's done.
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Stratified |
#8 | |||
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Ben, what varnish did you use that you weren't satisfied with? Can you expand on your dissatisfaction "cosmetically"?
I've been tempted recently to try Waterlox, which I believe you've previously recommended. However, I'm thinking of using on a USACG tele body which I want minimal finish, and not terribly concern with premature wear (but no interest in artificial relicing). |
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bfurman |
#9 | |||
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Stratified,
I initially used Waterlox spar varnish. The spar varnish is really durable and has a warm amber color. It flows out really well during brushing and dries very glossy. Unfortunately, the entire can polymerized before I was able to complete the project - about three months after I had first opened it. I switched over to a Sutherland Welles formula that had lower gloss but didn't brush on as well. I needed to repair some minor dents (with adherent finish), so I started over. The lacquer thing never happened either. Let's just say that spruce dents really easily.... Going for the "rustic" look now.
Last Edited By: bfurman Wed, Sep 30, 2009 01:06:24.
Edited 1 time.
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Stratified |
#10 | |||
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Ben, thanks for the interesting comments on your experience with Waterlox. How did you find the odor? Can the family handle the odor in the house during the
winter months? (The garage gets pretty chilly during winter time, here.)
I have heard of the polymerization in the can problem with Waterlox. Some users have advised to purchase a can of "Bloxygen" (I believe it's called), a spray can that replaces the oxygen in the Waterlox can with, probably nitrogen. Other tricks that have been suggested, filling the can with marbles to replace air space, transfering the remaining Waterlox into smaller containers. Rather than brushing on, flowing out, I'm considered wiping on thin coats 2 or 3 times daily, like what is recommended with Tru-oil. Kind of an experiment (haven't seen anyone suggesting they've tried that routine). I suspect the additional resins (its used for a floor finish for heavens sake) should make it more durable than Tru-oil. Regarding cost, Tru-oil comes in 3oz bottles, Waterlox in 32oz cans; if the polymerizing in the can issue can be successfully addressed, I think it would be as cheap or cheaper than Tru-oil. |
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bfurman |
#11 | |||
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The Waterlox products smell terrible. The solvents aren't very family-friendly either. I used it outside. FWIW, the amber color of the spar varnish comes
from the phenolic resins it contains - not the tung oil. The other formulas aren't as dark.
The Sutherland Welles product is promising, and it his much safer to work with. I've used it to finish woodwork in the house, and it is very durable once dry. Drying takes several days. The problem I had on the guitar was applying it in thick coats. Knowing what I know now, I'd use a rag method instead. Tru-oil is a good product too. You might have to reapply it periodically, but it's so easy to work with that it almost doesn't matter. It is linseed oil-based, so it will darken over time. Waterlox varnishes are pretty pricey at the local Woodcraft store. The S-W varnish is even more expensive and is only available online. I'm sure a nitrogen blanket will help to preserve either one. I hadn't thought of marbles before.... Cool idea. |
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