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 kukcoyote |
L90 problem |
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Posts: 1 Sun, Sep 6, 2009 12:03:57 |
I built my own guitar recently and used Wilde L90s (4H Neck, 6H Bridge) for the pickups. Here is the schematic of my wiring. The problem is that in positions
2 and 4 the neck pickup doesn't work. If I have the bridge volume all the way down, and the neck up, there is no sound. I have checked everything I know
with a multimeter and nothing looks wrong. By the way, the lower pickup is the bridge PU, not a second neck PU. Any Ideas?
Last Edited By: kukcoyote Sun, Sep 6, 2009 12:29:58.
Edited 2 times.
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kukcoyote |
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Posts: 2 Sun, Sep 6, 2009 12:06:17 |
Here is a picture of the guitar I built. PRS type body outline, Ibanez S-series back and front carving, 25.5" scale. Padauk wood for neck and
body.
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kukcoyote |
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Posts: 3 Sun, Sep 6, 2009 12:23:26 |
Ok, so I think I may have just spotted it, I found this on another post. The wiring code sheet that came with my PU did not have the image with it, just the
text. Are the red and green reversed? If so, why is it only the neck pickup that is not working?
Last Edited By: kukcoyote Sun, Sep 6, 2009 13:50:40.
Edited 2 times.
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fuzzy beard |
#3 | |||
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Posts: 1956 Sun, Sep 6, 2009 15:00:33 Contrib. Gold Charter Member
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Hi yaginhou!
It looks like the neck pickup is split in position two, with only green/white coil working, and that you posibly ground both pickups in those positions when you roll back the volume pot. The color scheme shown above is the correct one. Lawrence color schemes found elsewhere (Stewmac e.a. use Bill's old wiring layout, still in use by the "Xerox" company) |
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fuzzy beard |
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Posts: 1957 Sun, Sep 6, 2009 15:01:22 Contrib. Gold Charter Member
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Nice axe !!
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kukcoyote |
found L90 wiring problem | #5 | ||
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Posts: 5 Sun, Sep 6, 2009 15:49:20 |
Actually positions 2 and 4 for all intents and purposes are the same. What I found is that I had made the schematic wrong, transposing the Green and Red
wires. Once I figured what the problem might be, I realized that the Red/Black loops back to itself through the ground and the White/Green loops back through
the lead to the pot, without needing to go to the jack, so neither coil worked in those positions. What I found is that I had made the schematic wrong,
transposing the Green and Red wires. Then when I did a physical wiring diagram of the rotary switch to help with the soldering, I goofed the bridge red and
green wires and accidentally "fixed" the problem on the bridge. The neck stayed wrong. I will re-solder them this afternoon.
The volume knobs are true off when rolled all the way back so they open the circuit completely. I did confirm that. Thanks on the compliment on the axe. I am just a beginning player and have a great acoustic. I wanted to be able to practice without disturbing my wife and figured a full solid-body electric is the way to go. I just couldn't find anything that I really liked the finish on that had the features I wanted and felt right. So I took things I liked about several guitars and combined them. Worked out really nice. Funny thing is that none of my other guitars have a 25.5" scale, but this one is easier to play then the others. I think that it is because it is actually shorter than the other guitars so I don't have to reach so far out with my left hand to finger the notes. The guitar is 36.5" long, but it is somewhat heavy. |
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kukcoyote |
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Posts: 7 Mon, Sep 7, 2009 01:54:43 |
Switched the green and the red for the neck PU got it all soldered up and it works like advertised.
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PeteMK1 |
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Posts: 2200 Mon, Sep 7, 2009 11:46:58 Contributing Palladium Member
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Congrats on a cool axe!
A bit of info on the volume pot wiring: The "backwards" wiring loses more treble when the pots are turned down. If you don't like the behaviour of the volume pots, it might be an improvement to use a single master volume. But first you should get familiar with the axe and the wiring as it is.
You can say you to
me.
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