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I would suggest a slightly higher than normal cut...on your bridge slots for the lower strings.

I really don't notice the radius of the neck, as say I do the overall length of the neck. The shape and thickness sorta means more to me too.

But something I have noticed about these Fenders...is the compromise you need to make when it comes to string buzz and action.

The compound neck gives you a little more speed in upper regions, while the "comfortability" factor comes into play with your open chords and whatnot. That is why you keep the traditional radius towards the bottom register. This is primarily the reason for the development of the compound neck, as I understood it.

But here's the thing, you may slightly go a little sharper (pressing down on the first fret) with a higher cut on the bridge's bottom strings, true, but it allows you to twist the neck truss rod in a way, where you can get a compromised lower action with your upper end frets too. The problem really...is the bow in the neck start to curve up on you, as you get closer to your nut, so you have to keep the height just a bit higher than normal with nut slots.

Let me think about this for a minute. It's like something you have to work around in your playing.

It seems like you want the neck as straight as possible everywhere, but you need to back-bow it...to keep from buzzing with heavy hands. That's your starting point. So at some point...there's two parts on the neck that are bowed then, relative to the string's geometry, so maybe that was the whole point of the double-truss rod innovation, I guess. If you run into a problem thar, maybe compund radius helps out with action around the 12th fret. String bends are one thang, yea I know, but a flatter neck doesn't get in your way too. I'd just assume file away fret crowns on some of my cheap guitars by the way. I can live with flat frets for the most part, crowned frets aren't that spectacularily important to me, along as I can get a good grip But then you sorta still have that problem with the first fret I guess, especially if you like a thick string.

How can I describe this...

It seems like your neck "twists" with high tension, y'know?!?

Does anybody know what I'm saying?

This has been my own estimation...after endless tinkling around with a truss wrench. I've got at least one compound neck, but it's too thick for me. I may sell it. I need to try the same thing with a skinnier neck.

Not exactly Buzz Feiten precision math, but in my experience, if you like a good attack on those bottom bass strings to double up your bass player, maybe...maybe this hint will keep you from buzzing on a Fender.

This stuff is all un-applicable on the modern speedy gonzales type of guitars. In those situations, you are probably more interested in bar chords, than open chord "cowboy" guitars...so you would aim towards a Gibson school of thought there.

I'm not sure why everyone believes there's hard and fast rules with magnet pole stagger and radius of necks either. Maybe the Strat warble sounds good to me, I don't know. Wailing in the nut sounds bad to me (string angle), but I still haven't really heard this infamous G string Stratitis yet.

I think I'm bending whatever it is these guys are describing, back in tune naturally, or something.

What kind of warble do you get with these pickups? http://store.guitarfetish.com/alfaovpotene.html